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Castel Gandolfo — On the day in the Vatican City celebrates the Solemnity of the Ascension, Pope Leo XIV visited Castel Gandolfo today, the historic summer residence of the Pontiffs. The visit, marked by moments of reflection and prayer, renewed the bond between the papacy and this evocative place, overlooking Lake Albano and nestled in the Roman Castles.
A Long Papal Tradition
The tradition of Popes staying in Castel Gandolfo dates back to the 17th century. It was Pope Urban VIII Barberini who had the Apostolic Palace built in 1626 on the site of the ancient villa of Emperor Domitian. Since then, many Popes have spent the summer months here, seeking relief from the Roman heat and a time of rest for body and soul.
Castel Gandolfo thus became, in every sense, the “second home” of the Pontiffs, cherished for its mild climate, lush nature, and atmosphere of contemplation. Over the centuries, the residence has hosted not only restful retreats but also significant decisions and private meetings.
The Shadow Cast Over Castel Gandolfo
With the election of Pope Francis in 2013, this place experienced a dramatic shift. Pope Benedict XVI loved to retreat here and take time for prayer and reflection. It was here that he chose to withdraw so as not to influence the 2013 Conclave, after deciding to resign. He spent a few months here before the renovation of the Mater Ecclesiae Monastery was completed. As Pope Emeritus, he also returned several times by car to walk through the gardens, greet the villa staff, and stroll with his secretary and the Memores Domini.
Francis chose not to use it as a summer residence and, in 2016, even turned it into a museum. A choice that, rather than being motivated purely by ideals of poverty, seems to reflect a desire to generate revenue from the site.
The narrative spread in recent years — that Pope Francis gave up spending the summer in Castel Gandolfo out of consistency with a sober and humble lifestyle — proves, upon closer analysis, to be a contrived construction that has concealed the real consequences of that decision. In truth, the refusal to use the historic summer residence has had a significantly negative impact on several fronts: on the town of Castel Gandolfo, on the Papal Villas, and even on the internal climate of the Vatican. The town of Castel Gandolfo, linked to the papal presence for centuries not only for spiritual reasons but also for clear economic and touristic benefits, has suffered visible damage. The abrupt end of the tradition deprived the area not only of its symbolic prestige but also of a vital flow of tourism essential to the local economy.
As for the Papal Villas, they were turned into museums, a move that disrupted the balance of a historically well-maintained rural ecosystem. For instance, the management of livestock deteriorated noticeably: poor-quality feed led to a significant drop in milk production and an overall decline in farming conditions. Even within the Vatican, the repercussions of this decision have been felt. The absence of the traditional summer period in Castel Gandolfo, which once provided a break from the hectic life of the Curia, has fostered a more tense atmosphere. The Pope’s constant presence in Vatican City disrupted the internal balance, depriving many of the moments of respite that the papal holiday historically allowed. In short, the apparent gesture of humility turned out to be a questionable decision, with consequences far from negligible, deserving a more clear-eyed and less idealized assessment.
Today, despite the transformation of the Papal Villas into museums, many hope the Pope might make a forward-looking decision: to close Castel Gandolfo to the public and restore its original role as the papal summer residence. Such a move would align with the spiritual sensibility and contemplative character of Leo XIV: Prevost, a man deeply devoted to prayer and reflection, would undoubtedly find solace in a place so steeped in peace and stillness, far from the tensions of daily Vatican life.
The Return with Pope Leo XIV
Today, Leo XIV visited the Pontifical Villas of Castel Gandolfo, and even the mayor expressed hope that the Pontiff might once again make use of these places to rest and spend time among the local people.
The Pontiff was warmly welcomed in Castel Gandolfo by His Eminence Cardinal Fabio Baggio C.S. and by Father Manuel Dorantes, Administrative Director of the Laudato Si’ Advanced Training Center. The visit began in the evocative Garden of the Virgin Mary, a place dear to the spirituality of many Popes throughout the centuries, where the Holy Father paused for a moment of reflection.
He then continued his walk through the Belvedere Gardens, where he observed the final preparations for the inauguration of the Laudato Si’ Village, a project inspired by the ecological and social encyclical of Pope Emeritus Francis. The visit then proceeded to the Cryptoporticus, the ancient audience hall of Emperor Domitian, now a place of remembrance. There, Pope Leo XIV emotionally recalled the heroic witness of Pope Pius XII, who in 1944 provided shelter to over 12,000 people during the bombings that struck the Castelli Romani area in World War II.
The day concluded with a visit to the Apostolic Palace and the historic Villa Barberini before returning to the Vatican.
Those close to the Pope say: "He's getting a feel for the place; he has always been very fond of it." Today’s visit was brief but meaningful, intended to enjoy the beauty and peace of the location, and also to allow for a moment of relaxation after intense days. Indeed, Leo XIV has been deeply engaged in the celebrations marking the beginning of his Petrine ministry, in numerous private audiences, and in the taking possession of the Cathedral of Rome. In these first days of his pontificate, he has met with many Heads of Dicasteries of the Roman Curia and has already made several appointments. Today, on the Solemnity of the Ascension, the Pope chose to dedicate some time to rest.
p.S.T.
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